Free solo climbing (or free soloing) is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or free soloist) climbs on technical terrain without ropes or any form of protective equipment — they are allowed to use climbing shoes and climbing chalk (or ice tools and crampons if ice climbing).[
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徒手獨攀、自由獨攀、徒手攀岩（英語：Free solo climbing, free soloing），是一種攀岩的類型，攀岩者（或獨攀者）單獨攀爬而不使用任何繩索、安全吊帶或其他確保裝備。他們必須完全依靠自己的個人力量和技巧，以攀登牆面或山峰。與抱石不同，當獨攀者攀升到安全高度以上，其墜落會導致嚴重傷害甚至死亡。在普通的自由攀登（不是獨攀）中，也不會用裝備來幫助上攀、下攀或橫渡，但通常會使用安全裝備來防止墜落。
替代方案
徒手獨攀的替代方案包括：
- 使用繩索的自由攀登（Free climbing）以避免墜落。
- 抱石：攀爬高度足夠低，因此墜落一般來說是安全的，通常會使用抱石墊來做為緩衝。
- 深水獨攀（Deep-water soloing）：在水面上獨攀。
- 獨攀跳傘（Free BASE）：結合獨攀和跳傘，以自由獨攀攀升後，再用降落傘以定點跳傘的方式下降。
- 速度攀登：攀岩的一種類型，其目標是盡可能在最短的時間內完成攀登。
延伸閱讀
- The High Lonesome: Epic Solo Climbing Stories, John Long. ISBN 1-56044-858-X
- Ament, Pat (2001). A History of Free Climbing in America
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Free solo climbing (or free soloing) is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or free soloist) climbs on technical terrain without ropes or any form of protective equipment — they are allowed to use climbing shoes and climbing chalk (or ice tools and crampons if ice climbing).[1] Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb at heights where any fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed routes with technical grades that they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at technical grades closer to the limit of their abilities.[2]
The international profiles of some climbers have been significantly increased by their free soloing activities, such as Alex Honnold, Alex Huber, Alain Robert and John Bachar, but others question the ethics of this, and whether the risks that they are undertaking should be encouraged and commercially rewarded.[3][4] While "free solo" was originally a term in climbing slang, after the popularity of the 2018 Oscar-winning film Free Solo, Merriam-Webster added the word to their English dictionary in September 2019.[5]
In addition to free soloing on single-pitch and multi-pitch rock climbing routes — including the even longer big wall climbing that features in the Free Solo film — free soloing is also performed in a wide range of other climbing-types including for example in the discipline of ice climbing and of mixed climbing (which is featured in the 2021 climbing documentary film, The Alpinist), as well as in setting speed-climbing records on alpine climbing routes (which is featured in the 2023 climbing documentary film, Race to the Summit).
Description
Free solo climbing (which is sometimes just called soloing in the UK, or third-classing in the US),[6] is where the climber uses no climbing aids (as per all free-climbing), but in addition, uses no form of climbing protection whatsover.[6] The free solo climber may only use their climbing shoes and climbing chalk as they ascend the climbing route.[6]
Free solo climbing is a special form of free climbing but is different from the main forms of free climbing — sport climbing and traditional climbing — that use climbing protection for safety. In theory, bouldering is also free solo climbing (i.e. it also uses no aid or protection) but is usually not referred to as such except in the case of highball bouldering, where falls can be serious.[6] The most committing forms of free soloing are on multi-pitch — and the even longer big wall — routes, where any retreat is very difficult.[6]
In alpine climbing the term solo climbing – as distinct from free solo climbing – is used where the climber carries a rope and some aid climbing equipment to overcome difficult sections.[7] In addition, the term rope soloing is used for any solo climber who uses a rope and a form of self-locking device for continuous climbing protection on the route; this is also not considered as free solo climbing.[7]
Many early 20th-century rock climbers who began to free climb (i.e., avoiding any form of aid), were often practicing free solo climbing (or rope soloing), as the effectiveness of their climbing protection (usually a rope around their waist) was minimal. In the history of rock climbing, the first ascent of Napes Needle by W. P. Haskett Smith in June 1886 – an act that is widely considered to be the start of the sport of rock climbing – was effectively a free solo.[8] Early leaders of free climbing such as Paul Preuss, were also strongly interested in free solo climbing as being ethically purer. The 1958 ascent by Don Whillans of Goliath, one of the world's first E4 6a routes, was effectively a free solo (with a rope around his waist).[9][10] By the 1970s, when climbing protection was sufficiently developed to be effective, the discipline of free solo climbing began to stand apart.[6]
Notable climbers
While many rock climbers have free soloed routes (single-pitch or big wall/multi-pitch), at climbing grades well below their ability, a very small minority have practiced free soloing regularly, and at grades closer to their overall limits. The most prominent of this smaller group are those who have broken new grade milestones in free solo climbing and gained a significant profile from their soloing:[6]
- Alex Honnold – the most prolific and well-known free soloist of the 21st century, whose 2017 free solo of the route Freerider 5.13a (7c+) on El Capitan became the iconic film, Free Solo.[6] He also successfully free solo climbed Taipei 101, becoming the highest urban free solo climber in history.[18]
- Hansjörg Auer – the prolific big wall and high-altitude big wall free soloist, whose 2007 free solo of Fish Route on Marmolada was then the most daring in climbing history.[6][19]
- Michael Reardon – prolific free soloist whose 2005 free solo of Romantic Warrior won him National Geographic's "Adventurer of the Year".[6]
- Alexander Huber – one of the strongest rock climbers of the 1990s who set free solo grade milestones in single-pitch free soloing (with Kommunist), and big wall free soloing (with the Brandler-Hasse Direttissima).[6]
- Alain Robert – the early 1990s and 2000s pioneer of buildering, but who also broke important new free solo grade milestones in the 1990s.[6]
- Wolfgang Güllich – one of the strongest rock climbers of the late 1980s who set free solo milestones (Weed Killer), and did the iconic solo of Separate Reality.[6]
- Catherine Destivelle – a leading female climber of the late 1980s, who made iconic free solos in single-pitch (El Matador), and big wall (Bonatti Pillar).[6]
- Patrick Edlinger – a leading European free soloist of the 1980s, with iconic big wall free solos in the Verdon Gorge and Buoux, as featured in the 1982 climbing film, La Vie au bout des doigts.[6]
- Antoine Le Menestrel – prolific free soloist whose 1985 free solo of Revelations jumped several grade milestones in free solo climbing.[6]
- Peter Croft – a prolific Canadian free soloist of the 1980s, who pioneered big wall free soloing with The Rostrum and Astroman.[6]
- John Bachar – first free solo "superstar" and prolific American soloist of the late 1970s/early 1980s, who pioneered big wall soloing (Nabisco Wall).[6]
In addition, several other free solo practitioners are considered historically notable in free solo climbing and include the following: Ron Fawcett, Christophe Profit, Brad Gobright, Dan Goodwin, Colin Haley, Derek Hersey, Jimmy Jewell, John Long, Dave MacLeod, Dan Osman, Dean Potter, Paul Preuss, and Tobin Sorenson.[6]
Free soloing is less common amongst female rock climbers, however, as well as Catherine Destivelle, the following female climbers are historically notable free solo practitioners: Steph Davis and Brette Harrington, both of whom have free soloed single-pitch and big wall routes.[6]
Evolution of grade milestones
Single-pitch routes
- 2019 : Relatively unknown Italian climber Alfredo Webber, aged 52, free soloed Panem et Circenses in Arco, Italy, first-ever free solo of an 8c (5.14b).[20][21]
- 2004 : Alexander Huber free soloed Kommunist in the Tyrol, Austria; the first-ever free solo at grade 8b+ (5.14a).[9][6]
- 1993 : Alain Robert free soloed Compilation in Omblèze, France; the first-ever free solo of an 8b (5.13d) graded route.[9]
- 1987 : Jean-Christophe Lafaille free soloed Rêve de gosse, at La Roche-des-Arnauds, France; considered the first-ever free solo at the grade of 8a+ (5.13c).[9]
- 1986 : Wolfgang Güllich free soloed Weed Killer, at Raven Tor, in the Peak District, first-ever free solo at 7c (5.12d);[9] that same year, Gullich also did the iconic solo of Separate Reality 7a+ (5.12a).[6]
- 1985 : Antoine Le Menestrel free soloed Revelations, at Raven Tor, Peak District, the first-ever free solo at 8a (5.13b); considered a feat that was a decade ahead of its time.[9][6]
- 1982 : John Bachar free soloed Baby Apes, at Joshua Tree National Park, probably the first-ever free solo at 7b (5.12b).[22]
- 1961 : John Gill free soloed—onsight—the first ascent of Thimble, the first-ever redpoint, and thus the first-ever free solo, at 7a+ (5.12a).[9][23]
Big wall, multi-pitch routes
- 2017 : Alex Honnold free soloed El Capitan via Freerider, first-ever big wall solo at 5.13a (7c+);[24] becomes Oscar-winning film, Free Solo).[6][25]
- 2007 : Hansjörg Auer free soloed Fish Route, on Marmolada, in the Dolomites, Italy, first-ever big wall solo at 5.12c (7b+) (35-pitches).[6]
- 2005 : Michael Reardon free soloed, onsight, Romantic Warrior in the Sierra Nevada, USA, first-ever big wall solo at 5.12b (7b) (10-pitches); wins National Geographic "Adventurer of the Year".[6]
- 2002 : Alexander Huber free soloed, the 1,500 ft Hasse-Brandler on the Cima Grande, Dolomites, first-ever big wall solo at 5.12a (7a+).[26]
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