2025年12月21日 星期日

rip current, breakwater. the site also acts as a manmade breakwater that protects the island’s northern beaches

the site also acts as a manmade breakwater that protects the island’s northern beaches
該地點也起到人工防波堤的作用,保護著島嶼北部海灘。
Gāi dìdiǎn yě qǐ dào réngōng fángbōdī de zuòyòng, bǎohùzhe dǎoyǔ běibù hǎitān.

Wikipedia article "Breakwater (structure)".

Breakwaters are structures constructed on coasts as part of coastal defence or to protect an anchorage from the effects of weather and longshore drift.

ぼうはてい 防波堤

a breakwater.

離岸流 - Wikipedia

日文:「 離岸流 」(りがんりゅう).

中文:離岸流;裂流;激流

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_current

A rip current is a strong flow of water returning seaward from the shore. It is often mistakenly called a "rip tide" or "riptide", though the occurrence is not related to the tides. Colloquially a rip current is known simply as a rip. Although rip currents would exist even without the tides, tides can make an existing rip much more dangerous (especially low tide). Typical flow is at 0.5 meters per second (1-2 feet per second), and can be as fast as 2.5 meters per second (8 feet per second). Rip currents can move to different locations on a beach break, up to a few hundred feet a day. They can occur at any beach with breaking waves, including the world's oceans, seas, and large lakes such as the Great Lakes in Canada and the United States.

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